Kolkata contrasts

It's fair to say that this is a city full of unbelievable contrasts. In the time that we've been here it would seem that we swing quite frequently between the extremes this city has to offer. I realise already that some of the experiences we've had are not your usual run of the mill backpacker ones. Just being with mum and dad who have lived and worked here for nearly 2 years now means that we have quickly ventured into parts of the city I imagine many people never discover and maybe wouldn't want too. I am thinking particularly of our christmas eve evening, where we accompainied mum and dad delivering presents to all the children from the nursery at the Freeset project. All of their mothers work for the project which means that they either no longer work as prostitutes of have been prevented from following their mothers into the trade. Most of them still live in the brothel houses of the red light district, and so it was we found ourselves making our way down these dimly lit lanes into some of the most impoverished housing I have ever seen. If you can imagine stepping through narrow doorways into damp inner courtyards which serve as communal bathrooms too, then around the four sides are little rooms not much bigger than the one large double bed which fills them, then narrow dripping stairs leading up 3 levels to balconies above, where more rooms lead off, and as you look up ceilings are just canopies of greying fabric. If you can imagine that you're getting some idea of where we were. Outside in the narrow lanes women sit on stools waiting for custom and there were not that many smiles, or 'hellos' to be heard. But the families we visited, who know mum and dad, were so cheerful and welcoming, each wanting us to stay for drinks or just stop and talk for a while. It is a million miles from what any of us know or how any of us live. I think that all 4 of us who were experiencing this for the first time found it shocking and emotional and uncomfortable, and I think mum and dad who see this so regularly had perhaps forgotten a little what sort of impact it would have. I think it I will be carrying thoughts and pictures in my head from that evening for a long time.
In complete contrast on christmas day we went to the 5 star hyatt hotel for lunch. Having prepared myself for the fully Indian experience turns out we got roast turkey with all the trimmings after all. It was fantastic food and probably the poshest place I've ever been, and we had an amazing time. Mum and dad have explained more than once that they sometimes have to pretend they live in 2 parallel universe as its the only way they can justify the two sorts of existence there is in this city. I have a much greater appreciation now of what they mean.

Old Kolkata

The 4 of us (Sara, Hannah, and Becky + Katy, Sara's friend) arrived safe and sound last night to be met by a very excited mum and dad, who have been looking forward to this pretty much since they returned here from the UK in september. We promptly piled into one cab to drive the 30 mins to Kolkata old town where mum and dad live. Me and dad shared the front seat with the driver and the rest were squashed in the back, a trick we tried again today in an auto- rickshaw. Driving across the city in the middle of the night, there were only a few dogs and the odd person to be seen, but come daytime the roads are a cacophony of car, bus, and truck, and Tuk-tuk horns, the shouts of rickshaw pullers and the bustle of people. We have just been for a wander round the local area this afternoon. Taking in the chai stands, barbers and shoe shiners on the edge of the streets. Wirey armed rickshaw pullers, Cycle trailers loaded 10 feet high, stands loaded with marigolds and other flowers, kids playing cricket. We headed down to the river about 20mins walk away; the Hooghly a tributary of the Ganges. On route we were passed by funeral trucks, and paused to see a dead elderly lady being lifted from one of these on her flower strewn bier. We also crossed the railway which is lined on either side by innumerable slum dwellings. The river where the cremated dead are commitited to holy waters is banked with the detritus of puja idols. These are created for holy festivals from bamboo and papier-mache often quite large and intricate. Once the festival is over they too are carried down to the river and dumped into its murky flow. Despite the evident filth of this river, people who live by it use it to wash themselves and their clothes, use it to cook and drink and believe it has healing properties. There is much evident poverty the minute you step outside the front gate, and this isn't anywhere near as bad as it gets. So our first afternoon has thrown us into India in all its reality. It seems amazing that mum and dad are just living here everyday and getting on with it all, but it is vibrant and colourful and exciting to be here. Great to be eased in with people who know their way around and can speak enough Bengali to get by. I'm loving it already.

Crow's are go

Well I'm writing this sitting at my sisters house in Slough, we're heading off to Heathrow at 6am tomorrow but I thought I'd get this blog up and running. It looks like we may be facing some long delays tomorrow due to fog, Heathrow's a bit of a mess but it seems that it's only short haul flights being cancelled, so hopefully we'll be on our way. Was quite nervous leaving Brighton earlier but as soon as I met up with Sara at Paddington that changed to excitment. Not entirely sure what to expect but happy enough to be heading into the unknown. Very much looking forward to seeing Mum and Dad and in a couple of weeks Hannah B. Sad That my Brother Tim isn't joining us but spoke to him this morning and he is in the midst of organising a big regional football tournament out in Uganda, and thats keeping him pretty occupied. Reckon 2 months will fly by, but I'm sure I'll be missing you all the same. Have a fantastic Christmas all of you and I'll send more news soon. Not sure if I've completely worked out how to do everything to make this thing work, we'll see...