Wednesday, December 27, 2006

Kolkata contrasts




It's fair to say that this is a city full of unbelievable contrasts. In the time that we've been here it would seem that we swing quite frequently between the extremes this city has to offer. I realise already that some of the experiences we've had are not your usual run of the mill backpacker ones. Just being with mum and dad who have lived and worked here for nearly 2 years now means that we have quickly ventured into parts of the city I imagine many people never discover and maybe wouldn't want too. I am thinking particularly of our christmas eve evening, where we accompainied mum and dad delivering presents to all the children from the nursery at the Freeset project. All of their mothers work for the project which means that they either no longer work as prostitutes of have been prevented from following their mothers into the trade. Most of them still live in the brothel houses of the red light district, and so it was we found ourselves making our way down these dimly lit lanes into some of the most impoverished housing I have ever seen. If you can imagine stepping through narrow doorways into damp inner courtyards which serve as communal bathrooms too, then around the four sides are little rooms not much bigger than the one large double bed which fills them, then narrow dripping stairs leading up 3 levels to balconies above, where more rooms lead off, and as you look up ceilings are just canopies of greying fabric. If you can imagine that you're getting some idea of where we were. Outside in the narrow lanes women sit on stools waiting for custom and there were not that many smiles, or 'hellos' to be heard. But the families we visited, who know mum and dad, were so cheerful and welcoming, each wanting us to stay for drinks or just stop and talk for a while. It is a million miles from what any of us know or how any of us live. I think that all 4 of us who were experiencing this for the first time found it shocking and emotional and uncomfortable, and I think mum and dad who see this so regularly had perhaps forgotten a little what sort of impact it would have. I think it I will be carrying thoughts and pictures in my head from that evening for a long time.
In complete contrast on christmas day we went to the 5 star hyatt hotel for lunch. Having prepared myself for the fully Indian experience turns out we got roast turkey with all the trimmings after all. It was fantastic food and probably the poshest place I've ever been, and we had an amazing time. Mum and dad have explained more than once that they sometimes have to pretend they live in 2 parallel universe as its the only way they can justify the two sorts of existence there is in this city. I have a much greater appreciation now of what they mean.

6 comments:

Dicky Darling said...

Wow, what an eye opener for the truth of christmas around the world. The contrasts are stark and seem never ending when the surface is scratched. It was very moving to read, thank you.

Lisa said...

Hey Becky, I can see that I am going to get hooked on your blog, cos its fascinating already (no performance pressure intended!!). I think cos I worked for several years with prostitutes in Brighton, the focus of your M&D's work has resonance for me. Having said that, the difference in the context, i.e. the poverty, is stark, I've seen & heard some grim sights and tales in pretty slummy parts of B'ton and Liverpool, but its clearly still a world away from Kolkata. Hold on to your sparkle girl....and I look forward to the instalments.

sketchbooker said...

Beckton,
Glad to read of your safe arrival and news. In Brighton things are much as ever. Grey and greyer the skies; a chance to park the car with many spaces to choose from for just two days of the year- this feels so good, a rich and foody time spent in Sevenoaks, and a wander into town today, 28th, with Noah knocking everyone out with his Rollerblading stunts around the White Stuff shopfloor! Tilly is more tentatively 'Heeley-ing'her way around. Things are a world away from Calcutta ( when did the name change??)and we have no concept of desperation or poverty as you are seeing it, but I thought it might be nice to visualize just some of the native things from this time.
Love to you and the family.

P.s. Thanks for the lovely food jar. To save breaking the seal, what is it?

ever yours,
Curtis, Susanne Tilly & Noah xx

Anonymous said...

Hey bec, im totally hooked on my first ever blog read! Thanks for adding pics as my imagination can only stretch so far. Thanks too for reminding us that xmas is different all over the world. In my part of the world it was hot beyond belief with a family love so overwhelming that ive missed over the years. Im so happy to be home and not so far away. But after reading your blog who knows the travel bug might just hit me sooner than expected ;) Blessins to ya.

Su said...

Hey there - thank you for your illuminating update. It is grey and dark here, and no doubt most us are like me and moaning aobut being back at work having laid around in a fog of excessive consumption and sloth for more than a week.......I don't think we in the West understand poverty -perhaps as a notion, yes, but not as an actuality. We can ensure that we are aware of and grateful for our fortunate lives, but we don't really understand what it means to be hungry, thirsty, cold and tired. Your blog was a timely reminder of the many inequalities in life and how we shouldn't take even the bare necessities for granted.
PS Your M&D sound absolutely lovely!
Su xx

Unknown said...

Becks,

Great to hear from you and that you are enjoying being in my home City. Reading your descriptions trigger memories from when I used to live there. We used to live in those little dwellings. There, but for the grace of God go I! When ever you go there leave a blessings in each one of those places.

Talking about contrasts, we had a lovely Christmas with family and friends - eating, drinking, laughing and ... washing up. Please say hello to your parents from Yvonne and I. We so appreciate all that they are doing out there. Perhaps one day, we'll get there to see them.

Lots of Love Andy x

P.s. Hello :) from Kirsty who doesn't have a google account. Kx