Tuesday, January 30, 2007

Desolate Beauty




After a very enjoyable couple of days back in Udaipur, on a tip from mum and dad we headed to Bundi. We decided we really didn't fancy going back to Jaipur and could get a train from Bundi to Agra which was our next planned destination.
What a treat, thanks mum and dad for pointing us that way. A bit off the beaten track Bundi turned out to be very beautiful in a slightly crumbling desolate sort of way. It is less frequented but still well geared up for those who make it there with good hostels and hotels. It's a town nestling between hills with a small lake, and a dramatic palace and fort on the hill. We were only there for one day but headed up to the palace which was practically deserted in the morning. Wandering through the impressive elephant gate, then around once grand courtyards and up small stairways reeking of pidgeon poo it had the air of somewhere once vibrant now forgotten with many stories to tell. On the upper levels there were small painted rooms, which despite neglect retained many of their intricacies. We didn't have a guide relaying all the many stories that were depicted around the walls and ceilings, prefering to wander quietly at our own pace. From the palace we headed further up the hill in blazing sunshine to the desolate fort which occupies the length of the ridge. A series of tumble-down buildings, arches, gateways,and wells. Kids would be happy for hours and hours finding secret stairways, conquering ramparts and being able to see for miles. All of this with the added thrill of possibly aggresive monkies- the only real occupants of the fort. We were warned, by a friendly frenchman who had angered the monkies in some way, that it may be wise to arm ourselves with pointy sticks, this we did, and proceeded with some caution. But it seems that we caught them in siesta time and they left us alone prefering to pick fleas of each other rather than chase us.
You'd think that would be enough adventuring for one day, but having returned from the hill slightly de-hydrated, after lunch in a lovely garden by the lakeside, we wandered into town where it turned out there was a big muslim festival in full swing. Amazing glittering floats were parading down the streets to the rhythm of drums. Crowds lining the streets and a carnival atmosphere. As with all such events there was also the slightly more fanatical edge present with adolescent men waving a variety of swords, spears, large bludgens, and inserting knives under their skin. A couple we met later had also seen them slashing their bare chests with razors splaying blood across the crowds of onlookers, glad we missed that one. As it was there was a point where we were clearly in the wrong place at the wrong time, surrounded by a slightly frenzied crowd of men, some of whom turned their attentions towards the 2 white girls stupid enough to be stuck in their midst. Needless to say we exited the scene at the next available turning only slightly worse for wear and a little wiser perhaps.
Still quite an incredible day in Bundi, very glad we made the detour. I'm writing now from Agra, where we arrived on the overnight train early this morning. We head to the Taj Mahal this afternoon and then on to Delhi tomorrow.

1 comment:

Su said...

Thanks heavens for Frenchies advising use of pointy sticks - decades of Sir David-watching leads me to believe these apparently placid monkies could have turned vicious at any moment!
Keep blogging, Becks, I'm sure I'm not alone in thoroughly enjoying a virtual trip to India, so evocative are your scribblings.
Miss you,
Su xxx